Images of fiestas, food and enduro by photographer Steve Powell
THE BASICS
As well as the main Lubrín town, there are around 40 villages and hamlets, many of which are no longer inhabited. Among the most important outlying villages are El Pocico, Rambla Aljibe, Rambla Honda, El Marchal, El Chive and El Saetí.
Lubrín’s economy is largely based on agriculture. Locally produced products include olive oil, almonds, goat’s milk cheese, “chorizo” sausage and “morcilla”, or black pudding.The municipality is the base for the “Los Filabres” co-operative, which has its own abattoir and milk collection centre.
At 509 metres above sea level, Lubrín is generally a degree or two colder than the coast in the winter months, and there can be snow on higher ground. Summers are generally hot during the day, but tend to be cooler at night than coastal areas.
HISTORY
There have been settlements in Lubrín since prehistoric times. In the early 20th century archaeologist Luis Siret discovered evidence of the presence of Neanderthal man in the Cueva de los Morceguillos. Siret also discovered cave paintings in three rock shelters known as the Piedras de Cera on the outskirts of Lubrín.
The Moors occupied the area for centuries, but when in the 16th century the Christians put down a Moorish uprising in the Kingdom of Granada, of which Amería province formed a part, the Christians confiscated the land. The result was that Lubrín was left completely uninhabited.
In the late 1520s, 28 old Christian families from various parts of Spain were brought in to settle in the area to exploit the abundant wheat crops and olive orchards. Lubrín was originally part of the Marquis of Carpio’s estates, then through marriages, inheritances and exchanges, became part of the estates owned by the Duchy of Berwick and Alba. These lords received two-thirds of the “diezmo”, or tithe.
At this time the most significant crops were wheat and olive oil, which together with locally produced wine and chickpeas were sent to Lorca, Murcia and Almería. So much was produced that three oil mills, six flour mills and five bread ovens were built. There were also several textile mills for fabrics, flannel and blankets.
More recently, mining became an important activity in the area. There were iron ore mines and a mineral loading bay, which between 1953 and 1957 employed around 500 workers. A further 100 people were employed in the marble quarries up to the end of the 1960s; the El Tranco quarry in Rambla Aljibe was noted for its green and white marble.
The decline of agriculture and the local mining industry led to a marked fall in the population in the 20th century. Many local people emigrated to California and Germany, and more latterly to Cataluña. The number of inhabitants dwindled to only 800 at one stage, and there were so few young families that the local primary school was threatened with closure. Today the official population of the municipality numbers around 1,800.
THINGS TO SEE
LUBRÍN TOWN
Take a walk around the town’s winding streets and soak up the atmosphere of the real Almería. The Moors left their clear mark in the town’s steep, narrow streets opening out into small squares, and in the terraced houses with Arab tiled roofs.
Mainly single storey, many of the houses have been built from the local stone, using mortar made from gypsum and lime. Traditionally, the houses had a chamber above for storing meat and foodstuffs and for drying hams and sausages.
The grander houses once owned by the wealthy mineowners and managers have two or even three floors, as well as a storage chamber. Some of these houses also have internal patios and large balconies with wrought iron work. A number of the noble family shields above the main entrances are still clearly visible today.
You’ll also notice the grand job the local authority is doing of overseeing the renovation of the streets and the building façades, including the recently completed new square with an ornamental fountain and statue made from local marble.
Parish Church
The church situated in the centre of Lubrín town is dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary. Dating back to around 1880, the church was built on the orders of Bishop José María Orberá y Carrión, who promoted the renovation of religious buildings which had been made secular and promoted the construction of new buildings.
Diocesan architect Enrique López Rull was given the job of overseeing the construction of Lubrín’s church. A particular feature of the construction is the use of iron, a material once reserved only for industrial buildings, which was not only readily available in this mining area, but also economical.
The church has a Latin cross floor plan with three naves. The façade has a bell tower in the centre, which was rebuilt in the 1970s, and in built entirely in brickwork with pointed arches. The walls are stone and brick, with long windows and angular arches. The church’s most interesting characteristic is the iron columns set on marble bases.
As another point of interest, the church’s alterpiece had been almost totally destroyed; the only part which was saved is now in the church in El Chive. A new alterpiece was installed last year thanks to the collaboration of the whole village.
The Castle Clocktower
A clock marks the spot where Lubrín’s Moorish castle once stood on the hill overlooking the town. Dating back to 1309, the castle was mentioned in the first Muslim Lubrín land registry in 1488 and in the 1577 “Libro de Apeo”, which were records kept by each town after the expulsion of the Moors. The latest mention of the castle was in a 1750 land registry.
You can get to the castle site by taking Calle Zacatín and following the footpath. From this vantage point there are extraordinary views of the entire town.
The Abajo Public Fountain and Public Laundry
The old laundry at the entrance to the town is fed by the Abajo Fountain. In the past the water running along the long channel was used for washing clothes. Men and women would gather there to do the family laundry and to catch up on the latest gossip.
The old Álvarez de Sotomayor Theatre was built above the arches of the laundry. The theatre was used in successive times as a cultural centre, cinema and a cheese factory.
RESTAURANTS & BARS
Lubrín town and the surrounding hamlets offer a selection of excellent eateries and bars, many of them with tapas and dishes made from local produce: La Tasca near the town’s old public laundry; the El Molino restaurant and bar in a converted mill in the centre of the town, where not only is the food superb, the interiors are an authentic recreation of traditional styles; the newly refurbished La Cueva pizzeria and restaurant and the La Plaza bar in front of the Town Hall; the great value for money Bar Dtapas; the San Serb bar, which is particularly popular with the younger crowd; and the British-run Las Delicias.
AMENITIES & SERVICES
The town offers pretty much all you need right on the doorstep in terms of general shops, amenities and services, including banks, supermarkets, ironmongers, tool and equipment hire, bakeries, a pharmacy, a garage and mechanic’s workshop, carpenters, and shops selling clothes, shoes, furniture and electrical goods. In addition, Lubrín has a really good market every Wednesday, where you can buy all sorts of stuff, and particularly local produce.
There is also a post office, a medical centre, a public library, a Guadalinfo computer and IT centre, and a junior school; parents now have the choice whether to send their teenage children to an institute in Almería city as weekly borders or to an institute in Huérca-Overa.
Lubrín’s latest public facility is a municipal theatre, which is going to serve as a venue for various kinds of events.
SPORT & LEISURE
Lubrín boasts excellent sports facilities. There is a gymnasium and a municipal sports complex with an Olympic-sized open-air municipal swimming pool surrounded by grass, (which costs just one euro for a whole day), tennis courts, football pitch, bar and a picnic area.
Lubrín also offers a multitude of possibilities for tranquil country walks and bike rides, especially in spring and autumn. Visit Lubrín in late January for the natural spectacular of the almond trees in blossom.
FIESTAS & EVENTS
Fiesta de San Sebastián
Lubrín’s celebration in honour of San Sebastián is one of the Levante’s quirkier events. Every year on 20th January, the town is the scene of a boisterous ‘bun fight’ - the highlight of the three-day day Fiesta del Pan (Bread Fiesta). The peal of the church bells and an explosion of rockets kicks off the no holds barred event following a special midday mass.The crowd roars as the image of San Sebastián, one of the patron saints of Lubrín, emerges from the church adorned with fake bread rolls, and trailed by the town band begins a slow parade through the packed, narrow streets of the town.
Young and old “rosqueros”, sporting red bandanas and bellowing football terrace-like chants, vie to catch “roscos” - large, doughtnut shaped rolls - which “lanzadores” vigorously hurl from the windows and balconies above. The successful catchers then triumphantly thread their snatched trophies onto cords and dangle them around their necks. Once the noisy jostling for the roscos and processions are over, and the ‘necklaces’ have been proudly displayed in the streets, the revellers come together for snacks of bits of bread, tuna, anchovies and cold meats.
In May 2003 the Junta de Andalucía recognised Lubrín’s particular version of the Bread Fiesta with a Tourism Interest classification, the event attracting 8-10,000 intrigued visitors every year. The exact origins of the fiesta in Lubrín are not known for certain, but one version of the story is that centuries ago the area was blighted by cholera, plague, starvation and other natural disasters. The people appealed to San Sebastián for protection and salvation, staging a procession in the saint’s honour through the town. The threat of disease and blight lessened, and the good folk of Lubrín took it as a clear sign that San Sebastián had answered their call for help. In thanks for the saint’s intervention, the most affluent in the town began giving food to the neediest, throwing down their charitable offerings from the upper floors of their houses to make sure they didn’t become infected with disease.
Fiesta of the Emmigrants
Celebrated in the second week of August, the event is traditionally a welcome back for Lubrinenses who emigrated to various parts of the world and who return home for a summer holiday visit. There is a whole week of celebrations, with music, dancing, cinema and cultural and sports activities.
October Rural Food Fair
Held since 2000 to coincide with the fiesta in honour of the Virgen del Rosario, the event is a recognition of the area’s quality produce. The main event is a competition to prepare the best dish.
“Villa de Lubrín” endurocross
One of the big annual events in Lubrín is the “Villa de Lubrín” endurocross motorbike championship in October. Organised in 2005, 2006 and 2007 as an Enduro of Almería Provincial Championship trial, last year it was recognized as an official Andaluz Championship Trial, making Lubrín the smallest municipality in the region to stage the event. Lubrinenses are particularly supportive of the event because the municipality has its very own endurocross champ: David García (pictured here).
Living Belén
Every Christmas local people dress up in traditional regional costumes and take on such roles as shepherds and bakers, bringing to life the story of the Nativity and local traditions. This very special combination of theatre and artisanship is thanks to the hard work of the local Women’s Association and the support of the Town Hall.
GETTING THERE
From the coast, you can either get to Lubrín by going through Bédar, by taking the Zurzena and La Concepción turning on the motorway at the Ballabona, or by cutting through from Antas to close to La Rambla Aljibe - the windiest bits of the road as you approach La Rambla Aljibe has been widened and resurfaced and the rest is pretty much straight and easy driving.
